Faceting Explained: A Breakdown of the Process Involved in Jewelry Design
From ancient civilizations to modern cutting-edge technology, the evolution and history of gem faceting techniques have been marked by significant milestones and innovative breakthroughs. This fascinating journey, spanning thousands of years, has transformed the art of gem cutting from simple polishing and minimal faceting to the highly sophisticated techniques we see today, all aimed at maximising brilliance and light performance.
In ancient times, gem polishing was prevalent, particularly in India, where the emphasis was on size, colour, and polychromatic effects linked to religious symbolism rather than light performance through faceting. The Indus Valley and surrounding regions showed early sophistication in stone shaping, but many gems were polished without complex faceting (1).
The medieval period, from 1200 to 1500, saw complex gem cutting still undeveloped. The focus remained on size and colour rather than facet patterns that would enhance light performance. Gem cutting, as a technical craft, had yet to mature (2).
The Renaissance, from the 14th to the 17th century, marked a crucial turning point with the revival of various ancient crafts and growing interest in optics and light. Although detailed facet cutting was still emerging, this period laid the groundwork for future innovations in gem cutting techniques (3, 4).
The 17th century brought the first true brilliant cuts, reflecting a new understanding of how diamond facets could maximise light return and sparkle, fueled by the opulent candle-lit settings demanding more brilliance. The Mazarin cut, invented by French Cardinal Mazarin in the mid-1600s, featured 17 crown facets and was the first real brilliant cut (1).
Later, the Peruzzi cut, invented in the 1700s, improved upon this structure by adding 33 crown facets, known as the triple-cut brilliant, and influenced the old mine cut shape (1). The pavilion-based design became the standard, where the bulk of the diamond’s weight was in the lower part, enhancing brilliance by reflecting light to the top (1).
The famous marquise cut was commissioned by King Louis XV of France to resemble the mouth of his mistress, Marquise de Pompadour, exemplifying the customisation of brilliance cuts to suit different rough shapes. Despite these advancements, older styles like table cuts, point cuts, and rose cuts persisted until Indian diamonds became scarce, prompting mass recutting of older diamonds to improve sparkle, causing early cuts to become rare in original form (1).
Modern faceting is built upon these classical foundations, with advanced equipment and computer-aided design allowing for precision cuts that maximise optical properties, durability, and beauty. Today’s cuts retain the pavilion-based principles established centuries ago but employ laser technology, computer modeling, and precision machinery to create optimised light performance beyond what was historically possible (1).
The progression reflects a shift from simple polishing and preservation of gemstones’ weight to highly sophisticated techniques aimed at maximising brilliance and light performance, culminating in the precise, technologically enhanced gem cutting practiced today (1, 3, 5).
**Summary Table of Key Milestones**
| Era/Date | Milestone/Innovation | Significance | |------------------|-----------------------------------------|------------------------------------------| | Ancient India (4th-5th Century CE) | Polishing, minimal faceting | Focus on size, colour, polychromy, religious symbolism | | Medieval (1200-1500) | Gem cutting undeveloped | Size and colour prioritized | | Renaissance (14th-17th Centuries) | Revival of craftsmanship | Foundation for light-based cutting | | Mid-1600s | Mazarin Cut (17 crown facets) | First true brilliant cut enhancing sparkle | | 1700s | Peruzzi Cut (33 crown facets) | Improved brilliance, triple-cut brilliant | | Mid-18th Century | Marquise cut | Customized brilliant shapes | | 18th Century | Recutting of older diamonds | Shift to maximum sparkle, decline of old cuts | | Modern Times | Laser and computer-aided cutting | Precision, optimization of light return |
References: 1. GIA, (2021). A Brief History of Diamond Cutting. Retrieved from https://www.gia.edu/gia-research/diamond-cutting/brief-history-of-diamond-cutting 2. The Jewelry Loupe, (2021). The Evolution of Diamond Cutting. Retrieved from https://www.thejewelryloupe.com/the-evolution-of-diamond-cutting/ 3. The Diamond Pro, (2021). The History of Diamond Cutting. Retrieved from https://www.thediamondpro.com/the-history-of-diamond-cutting/ 4. The Diamond Library, (2021). The History of Diamond Cutting. Retrieved from https://www.thediamondlibrary.com/history-of-diamond-cutting/ 5. The Gem Guide, (2021). The History of Diamond Cutting. Retrieved from https://www.thegemguide.com/diamond-cutting-history/
- The lapidary art of gem cutting in ancient India focused on size, color, and polychromatic effects linked to religious symbolism, rather than maximizing light performance through faceting, as opposed to modern techniques.
- During the medieval period, from 1200 to 1500, complex gem cutting techniques had yet to develop, with the focus remaining on size and color rather than facet patterns that would enhance light performance.
- The Renaissance period, from the 14th to the 17th century, marked a crucial turning point in the history of gem faceting, as the revival of various ancient crafts and growing interest in optics and light led to the emergence of detailed facet cutting, paving the way for future innovations.
- With the invention of the Mazarin cut in the mid-1600s, the first true brilliant cut, gem cutting entered a new era, as this cut maximized light return and sparkle by reflecting light more effectively, shaping the landscape of modern jewelry and technology.
