Mechanical Amphitheater for Wrist Crafted by MB&F, Functioning as Timekeeper
In a departure from their characteristic flamboyant and thought-provoking timepieces, MB&F and its collaborators have launched the Special Project One (SP One), a 38mm round watch that manages to strike a balance between convention and eccentricity. This new addition to the brand's 20-year history represents the genesis of the Special Projects collection, which serves as a repository for unorthodox concepts that don't quite fit within the existing Horological Machines (HM) and Legacy Machines (LM) categories.
The genesis of the SP One can be traced back to 2018, when Max Busser, the brainchild behind MB&F, drew a sketch of a simple design featuring three interconnected circles - a symbolic representation of the watch's essential elements: the mainspring barrel, the balance wheel, and the off-center dial. The design remained dormant for years until MB&F decided to embrace the idea of creating something sleek and refined. The resulting watch, with its elegantly reserved design, is a surprising testament to the brand's versatility.
The SP One: A Study in Balanced Minimalism
Upon first glance, the SP One's 38mm pebble-like case, with its smooth flowing design, might lead one to wonder if they've stumbled upon a different brand's dress watch, with its lack of sharp angles and aggressive elements. Offered in either 18k rose gold or 950 platinum, the case measures a relatively thin 12mm, a rarity by MB&F standards.
While the SP One exhibits traditional MB&F design elements, such as the off-center crown and floating lugs, it has a minimalist aesthetic that sets it apart from its predecessors. The lack of a bezel allows the domed sapphire crystal to seamlessly blend into the case, providing a sweeping view of the mechanical wonders within.
Architecture of Three Circles
The heart of the SP One is its Y-shaped in-house movement, which showcases three perfectly balanced circular components - the mainspring barrel, the balance wheel, and the time display. The circumference of each circle is identical, contributing to a harmonious visual balance while creating an illusion of the floating elements.
The time display, positioned at 6 o'clock, is slightly tilted towards the wearer, a signature MB&F touch that necessitated the use of conical gearing to drive the hands. The dial itself boasts a DLC-coated base with a brushed finish, faceted hour markers, and intricately skeletonized hands featuring a unique tremblage texture on top. This contrast nicely with the hands' polished sides.
Orbiting the entire movement is what MB&F calls an "amphitheater," a beveled flange with a spiraled brushed surface that lends depth and dimensionality. The platinum model features a sky blue flange, while the rose gold version exhibits a warm anthracite hue. This colorful ring serves as a striking frame for the mechanical performance within, capturing one's attention at every glance.
Classical Finishing and Contemporary Architecture
A flip of the SP One reveals a movement that embodies modern architecture while maintaining traditional finishing techniques. Hand-beveled anglage adorns all the wheels, gold chatons secure the jewels, and the oversized balance wheel ticks at a leisurely 2.5Hz (18,000 vph). A single barrel provides a substantial 72-hour power reserve.
Rather than exhibiting every gear, bridge, and screw, as other watchmakers might, MB&F has opted for negative space, making the core components appear to float even more dramatically. This philosophy extends to the caseback view, where the movement seems suspended within the case, creating an ethereal effect when the watch rests on one's wrist.
Specifications and Pricing
Case Size: 38mm diameterCase Thickness: 12mmLug-to-Lug: 41.9mmCase Material: 950 platinum or 18k rose goldCrystal: Domed sapphire with anti-reflective coatingWater Resistance: 30mMovement: In-house SP One caliberPower Reserve: 72 hoursWinding: ManualFrequency: 2.5Hz (18,000 vph)Jewels: 31Strap: Calfskin with matching precious metal pin buckleLimited Edition: No (limited only by production capacity)
The MB&F Special Project One is available in rose gold (approximately $76,000 USD) and platinum (approximately $82,000 USD), exclusive of taxes. The watch is available immediately through official MB&F retailers.
The SP One embodies MB&F's pioneering spirit while exploring new avenues of elegance and refinement. A subtle departure from the brand's usual bold and conversation-starting timepieces, the SP One whispers sophistication, while still remaining true to the brand's innovative roots within the realm of three-dimensional architecture.
This minimalist SP One, with its smooth flowing case design and lack of sharp angles, might lead one to ponder if it's a dress watch from a different brand. However, its 38mm case, offered in 18k rose gold or 950 platinum, and the off-center crown, floating lugs, and the use of conical gearing for the time display, are classic MB&F design elements, showcasing the brand's versatility in embracing sleek and refined styles, a stark contrast to their normally bold and thought-provoking timepieces. The incorporation of gadgets, such as the conical gearing and the intricately skeletonized hands, in this technologically advanced watch, underscores MB&F's commitment to blending tradition with innovation.
