Within the advanced Japanese factory, Goldwin 0 manufactures its innovative technical- clothing through experimental methods.
Unheralded gems often lay hidden, and that's what Toyama, a mere two-hour bullet train ride from Tokyo, represents. Nestled amidst the Sea of Japan and the snow-capped Hida Mountains, it epitomizes untouched natural beauty, boasting pristine beaches, verdant countryside, deep blue lakes, and breathtaking glaciers. Yet, this serene land plays host to an unexpected revolutionary force: Goldwin 0.
While Goldwin may lack Western recognition, its impact in Japan is profound. Beyond its own offerings, the brand holds lucrative manufacturing agreements with big-name sports brands such as Speedo, Ellesse, and The North Face. With a rich heritage dating back to the 1950s, Goldwin's humble beginnings produced Fair Isle jumpers and wadded socks for skiers in Hokkaido and Honshu. However, the brand has come a long way since then.
Spread across a vast 20,000 sq m campus in Toyama, Goldwin's headquarters and manufacturing hub is a testament to utility-wear innovation. Cutting-edge laboratories birth fabric innovations, performance clothing is honed on athlete test tracks, and garments are manufactured using advanced production lines. Inspired by the Japanese ethos of coexisting with nature, this complex seems an organic extension of the surrounding rice fields.
Goldwin 0: The Edge of Possibility
In 2022, Goldwin 0, the experiential diffusion line, was born. This brand serves as a sandbox for Goldwin to explore its philosophies freely, intertwining decades of technological expertise with genuine environmental commitment.
At the forefront of Goldwin 0 is a lineup of projects that tread the line between science fiction and reality. Engineered bacteria brew protein-based yarns using Spiber's fermentation process, slime moulds are examined to unlock new biodegradable fabric structures, and waste plastics gathered from coastal communities are spun into durable, water-repellent fibers. Goldwin 0 is also pioneering Spiber's Brewed Protein - a new material that is neither petroleum-based nor natural, with the potential to revolutionize the fashion world.
A true innovator, Goldwin is dedicated to charting the course towards a more responsible future. Spearheading this change, Soichi Hirayama, general manager of Goldwin's Technology Research Laboratory, emphasizes Goldwin 0's role as a beacon for a greener tomorrow.
Pushing the Envelope: Nur Abbas @ Goldwin 0
In 2023, British-born designer Nur Abbas joined Goldwin 0’s ranks. With a distinguished background in the fashion industry, he's well-versed in translating sportswear aesthetics into high fashion. His career includes stints at renowned houses like Maison Margiela, Louis Vuitton, and Yeezy, as well as roles at Nike and the launch of Uniqlo U under Christophe Lemaire.
Embracing Goldwin 0's ethos, Abbas combines intricate design and functional engineering to create wearable art. His recent summer collection draws upon mechanical ventilation, seed-pod-inspired outerwear, geological color palettes, and generative prints that seamlessly blend with modern fashion, whether worn on the slopes or in urban East London settings.
The Future of Goldwin 0
Asked about the impact of outdoor wear on fashion, Nur Abbas offers a philosophical perspective. He lambasts the notion of returning to nature and self-sufficiency, arguing that such actions could deplete natural resources. Instead, he endorses the incorporation of sustainable, functional clothing in fashion, advocating for the appreciation and protection of nature while reaping its benefits.
As a champion of Goldwin's history and innovative vision, Abbas seeks to shine a spotlight on the brand's achievements. Drawing parallels between his previous design experiences and the technologically-advanced Goldwin 0, he encourages a newfound sense of pride in the brand's mission to create a more sustainable future.
A version of this story appeared in the July 2025 issue of our magazine, available on newsstands starting June 5, 2025, on our website app for Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Stay connected with us by subscribing to our newsletter
Enrichment Data:
- Goldwin 0 is an experimental diffusion line that combines sustainable materials, innovation, and fashion, aiming to create a more responsible future for the textile industry.
- Some of the innovative materials Goldwin 0 utilizes include Brewed Protein Yarns, Slime Mould Research, and Waste Plastic Fibres, all aimed at furthering sustainability in the fashion world.
- With Nur Abbas, an experienced designer with a background in luxury fashion houses, Goldwin 0 pushes the boundaries of sustainable fashion while staying true to the brand's technical expertise.
In the realm of sustainable fashion, Goldwin 0, nestled amidst Toyama's scenic landscape, invites extraordinary collaborations with designers of global renown. British-born designer Nur Abbas, whose distinguished career spans prestigious fashion houses and sportswear giants, embraces Goldwin 0's ethos, fusing intricate design with functional engineering to champion a harmonious blend of fashion, technology, and sustainability. Goldwin 0's groundbreaking projects, exploring the marriage of science fiction and reality, center around using innovative materials such as engineered bacteria-brewed yarns, slime mould research for biodegradable fabric structures, and upcycled waste plastics from coastal communities, propelling the fashion-and-beauty industry towards a lifestyle embracing technology and an environmentally-conscious outlook on sports apparel.
